its snowing here right now. the carrier bearing is on hold until it gets a little warmer.

the middle steering u-joint has 3/4" diameter round holes in each end (so i could just stick the DD shaft into each end and weld them up). . that was probably the cheapest u-joint out of the 3..

ohracer is the guy on ebay that sells them...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FRED-MOTT-RACING-STEERING-UNIVERSAL-U-JOINT-FMR-25477-3-4-SMOOTH-BOTH-ENDS-/200656637751?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item2eb8114f37



what year is your truck? im not sure why yours would only have a shaft with no splines... half ton trucks are like that...

I actually checked on a different column. My dually is a 88. I have a 88 3/4 burban as well and the engine and front clip is off. So I pulled the shaft out between the column and gearbox so I could cut out the DD part of that shaft to use. I would assume that since they are both the same year, tilt, cruise, ect., that they would be the same column. I will put the dually shaft apart and check.

The shaft on the 3/4 ton burban is a rectangle with the tips of the corners rounded off some. Cross measured from corner to corner is 1 inch. I can take a small amount of material off of each corner to get the joint onto the shaft then tighten the set screw and jamb nut against one of the flat sides to hold it. If the dually shaft is the same as the burban I will snap a pic of it.

U die sparky?

Ya what he^^^^ said...... u better be busy driving this damn truck that makes me wanna sale my 97 and buy a 77

agreed. i havent seen him here or on my thread over at c-10 forum. we need more updates. hope u have gotten to drive it. we want some video too if possible

i am still kicking... the truck is pissing me off.

i have went through 2 different size carrier bearings just to have them not fit.(1.33", 1.57") and of course. the one that fits is going to cost me $80.00 (1.77") ... the other 2 that didn't fit only cost 16.99....?????

i lost the receipt for one of them, so now i am stuck with the 1.57" carrier bearing that doesn't fit..
anybody need a carrier bearing for cheap??

not that i needed one. i went ahead and bought a new master cylinder for it as well... and it doesn't fit.
the original one doesn't have a hole in the end where the rod pushes it in. just a small divit....all the new ones i have seen all have holes in them a bout a inch deep. no workie...
i went to the chevy dealership. they don't stock parts for old trucks anymore.. they told me that vintage parts had one for 275.00 . .. no way in hell i would pay that for a master cylinder....


the brand new front brake lines i bought for it don't fit as well..i bought them off ebay. they were supposed to be for a c-30 1 ton chevy truck.. they look exactly the same, but the hole where it bolts to the caliper is to small... could they be a for a 3/4 ton truck????.

wasting money on parts that don't fit pisses me off something fierce...


the only good news i have is that i bought a 1 1/4 " O.D. threaded bung and a 3/4" heim joint for my panhard bar from total performance inc.
that shit cost me 29.00
all i lack is buying a panhard mount for the rearend and making some mounting tabs for the poly end link.

i could have bought a panhard bar complete with 2 3/4" hiems from speedwaymotors for 49.00. but it never listed what the I.D. or O.D thickness of the bar they use. i didn't want to take a chance of it being to small and breaking it. im sure it wasn't meant for a 1 ton dually rear end anyways....


as soon as i find a cheaper carrier bearing on ebay, i will get back outside and finish up the rear end and put the bed back on......

Hey Sparky, don't know if this will help but whenever I was tearing my C30 down I remember there being sizing adapters at each ends of the break lines. Mine even had them going into the calipers and proportioning valve. Mine could however been jerry rigged by the previous owner.

the ends of the brake line that screw into the hard lines connects as it should. its the metal end that connects to the caliper. that bolt hole is to small.



i scored a brand new pair of turn signal lenses on ebay for 15.00 shipped. all i need to do is transfer the chrome trim off the old lenses...



pics of my panhard bar i am building...



what it should look like when im done

Sparky, check out this master. Pretty sure thats what you need. A1 Cardone 10-1982


or if you want new


ebay has them cheap
Plus, Summit racing (on ebay also) has your bearing for $25 bucks
p/n HB88509 the picture that they have on there is wrong though. I would call them to verify that it a support bearing

hell yea! thanks dragginframe2000... that helps me alot..

i just got off the phone with summit. they said the pic is wrong on that auction, but it will work on my truck.... and its cheap! 29 bux shipped..
i searched the part number hb88509 on ebay and found a similar one that has 1.77" inner diameter. so it should be perfect.


that looks like the master i need. but both of my brake line ports are 9/16" . that one above has 2 different brake line sizes.. i guess i could buy those adapters and make it work... i found one on ebay for 12.00 shipped...

mine gave me a good ass whipping on the starter..... new flywheels and after 3 starters i finally went to NAPA and bought a NEW not reman starter for alot more money and she starts just fine now....... glad to see your making progress

thanks lilj.

i feel your pain.

i had to buy a new starter and flywheel for mine as well. ( this was before i decided to tear it apart and body drop it..)
it was hit and miss when i tried to start it..it made a crazy high pitch grinding noise no matter what kind of shim i used on the starter... so, i rebuilt 2 used starters that did the same thing..so i said fu*k it and bought brand new starter and flywheel.. works great now..

Blahhhhh you know stupid projects we build can never go easy...especially when your so close to the end, it doesn't help that your foaming at the mouth to drive sumthin so big so low

I love mine (before I tore it apart) sitting at a red light and old people pull up next to you and see the big ass spikes sticking out and they give you this "awful, pissed off, you just ran my dog over" look.....Haha I'm gunna post one of those pics when mine get rolling again....its only been 3 months mines been tore down and it killing me

yep, nothing goes as planned .....ever.... i can see how some people that build a custom vehicle get frustrated and call it quits . its like one problem after another problem you have to fix....1 foot forward takes you 10 steps back...


i want to see some pics of said scowelled faced old people..

-----to do list------
fab some mounting tabs for panhard bar
weld up the bung and poly end link to panhard bar
buy heim joint mount for rear end <--done
install the driveshaft after i get the new carrier bearing
mount the panhard bar
mount the airbags and plumb the hoses
buy new front brake lines...again
install the new rear rubber brake line
install the 3.42 ring gear and pinion & paint rear end
extend the rear tail lights wire harness
de-rust the back half of the frame/prime/paint black
mount the bed back on.
paint fuel tank and run new rubber hoses to it..
clearance/trim the front fenders so the tires don't rub when laid out..

i need to figure out how i am going to put air in my 5 gallon tank (edc-york/ electric motor-to the york/ or use some harbor freight 150psi 12 volt compressors..( i bought three open box 150psi hf comps from ebay for 60.00) . they are 89.00 each at harbor F.



my to do list keeps getting longer and longer. and i still haven't touched the interior or paint work.......but i am getting closer to it being drivable again

man I feel your pain....when my truck was in the shop I taped a piece of paper to the passenger window with my to-do list....by the time I got done writing I had taped 3 more pieces to the window....it gets frustrating