i havent been able to find anything... people are very tight liped with these trucks to. i just recently got 6 24's and 305/35/24 tires. im starting to get all my parts to body my truck. end of july probably. my questions have to do with the front end. im going to build my own arms, raise my upper arms and do a uniball up top and moog in the bottom. my question is on the hubs. i know on the obs trucks people go to a srw front hub to help with it tucking. im not going to be tucking my lugs. ill raise my frnder slightly becasue i really dont want to get away from the long spikes. id like the fender to look like its almost on the spike when im layed out. so my question is does my dually hub come off of mine and thats the srw hub? i know i have the extension on mine but not sure if i take that off? if that makes since? then i can extend my arms to help with my angles? or just make arms factory length since im not looking to tuck my lugs? thanks

josh

If you take the dually hub piece off the rotor it is very close to the same as the SRW hub. The problem is that on the hub the holes are too big for the lug studs (I think, I know this is right on the OBS trucks).

Then you can make your control arms to the length you want since you are wanting them to sit just above the spikes. I think they will be a bit over 2" over the stock SRW arms.

so if i was to take the dually part off i could just have my adapters redrilled to the size of the studs that come off it? i guess im asking more or less do i really need to take them off? is it possible to get the lift with stock length arms and the dually adapter peice? i know the red d-max that was ducks has extended arms and hub spacers on top of that. i really dont want to run a spacer if i dont want to. adapters and spacers just seem a little much to me.

josh

I am pretty sure you can get the lift you need out of the stock arms as long as you are lifting the upper. You may want to lengthen the lower just a bit to make sure they will get the lift you need.

I don't blame you on the spacer/adapter deal.

i havent measured the exact body drop ill need yet. i just know im going to run 3x5x.250 because i plan on towing alot. i know there is alot of negatives on no camber change without a sway bar but what do you think of 3 degrees MAX with front and rear sway bars? im building this thing how i want, to tow a 3 car wedge, and be a 1/4 inch off the highway if i want without destroying 24 tires. i know how to set up the tierods and arms correct but what if i set it up for 0 degree change but like i said front and rear sway bars, 4 resi shocks in the back and resi shocks up front? i cant get a clear answer on that. some say ill be fine with sway bars some say they dont know. they will be the custom build ones of polyperformance.com and fox resi shocks from there to. the back will have a tri 4 link with tripple bellows over the axel. and a sway bar the connects to the axel as well. itll mostly be driven straight at highway speeds and the curves. maybe a few donuts here and there and town driving.mostly be the bd'd show tow pig thow.

josh

bump