Looks like the sled's gonna need a rebuild. Looking for some suggestions.

I was planning on staying with a stock rotating assembly and just picking up a rebuilt shortblock from one of those engine rebuilding companys.

As for the top end, I think I'm going to send out the heads out for a clean up/valve job. The only real "upgrades" I was thinking about was one of those Edelbrock "kits" that has the matched intake, cam and carb. I don't need a drag motor, but some extra horsies is never a bad thing. Just something a little over stock to wake it up a bit.

Anybody have any other suggestions or is this a pretty good plan?

Looks good to me.

If you have the time, having your block bored and building it yourself I find is fun.

Yeah, I thought about it, but the cost is about the same either way, and to be honest, I don't really have the knowledge to do it myself...with confidence, anyway. Campy Sr. said he could show me, but I don't think I want to mess with it.

It's not bad, just take your time. I guess I just like to be able to say I did it.

But you're right for the cost you can't hardly beat most of those rebuilders, and you get a warranty.

More compression wouldn't cost anymore. May as well take it 60 over at this point. In fact, a cast stroker crank would be nice. And how about some modern heads? Maybe have a five-angle grind done on a set of used Vortecs? Got any money left? Maybe a roller cam?

Strange how these things snowball...

Yeah, I don't want to go crazy. Still have to get semi-decent mileage and It's gotta stay reliable...it's my daily.

I would just go .030 over with a street daily driven truck more so a big dually like we have.....when you bo yre it much more then that you could run into over heating issues....You also have to have your block machined for a stroker crank....justa FYI

Okay, well that leads me into a few questions...

1. When you bore them out like that, do you have to run different pistons? How does that work?

2. What kind of crank should I use and what would I tell the machine shop?

3. What kind of HP are we talking when you go to someting .030 over?

you can use your same crank and put in new slugs. not sure about your power increase for a few extra cubic inches. but if your doin the heads you might be able to shave them a bit or use a smaller head gasket for more compression.

If you bore it you have to get new pistons and rings that match the oversize you bore it. .010, .020, .110(sorry only with old ford 460s).




You can use your stock crank, probably just have it polished, or if it has bad spots turned. Just tell them to do what it takes to clean it up. If you can't trust them to get it right telling them that you shouldn't be going there. If they turn it down say .010 then you have to get oversized bearings to match. They can do it with the crank and rod journals depending on how much wear there is. But I bet polishing would do it.



Everything else the same boring it isn't going to give you much more. The heads, cam and intake will net you the power gain.

The Edelbrock goodies have a good reputation.

hey Campy I sent you a PM

And while raising the compression ratio will get you some power, it also bumps you up into needing higher octane fuel. I'd avoid it. It'd be one thing if your rig was some lightweight car that got around 20mpg already, you wouldn't feel too much pain, but when you get half that, it sure bites you in the ass every time you have to fill up with premium. Noticeably more power just about always means less MPG, no reason to have to pay more FOR the fuel, you're already paying FOR more fuel. Just my erpenion. Get your HP gains elsewhere as people have mentioned. Cam, heads, intake, exhaust...

Richard

Yeah, I got it. Thanks, Man.

I can get a 454 shortblock from one of the more reputable rebuilders out here for $725, so I think I’m gonna go that route.