what all is involved in one?
where can i get one? i havent been able to find one.
if there isnt a rebuild kit what all do i need to get?
thanks in advance

oh by the way its a 98 454 automatic

Check out P A W.

How bad is your motor or what are you trying to accomplish?

ive got to replace some gaskets and stuff that are leakin and it sounds off i was just curious as to what was all involved in a rebuild.
it seems like im always replacein something on this stupid thing.
at what mileage do people normally rebuild or is it just depending?

thanks for the link though

I myself use jegs or summit for rebuild kits....your basic rebuild kit will come with a full gasket set, stock OEM style oil pump, main and rod bearings, piston ring set and pistons if you want to replace your pistons.....and depending on what kind of ware pattern you have on them and what your cly. walls look like i would probably reuse your stock pistons if you are lookin to just freshin your motor up a little. Other wise I would replace the pistons with a good basic Hypereutectic flat top piston...and with that said, I would have your block bored (IF YOU REPLACE THE PISTONS) out to .030 over.......


there are many different roads you can go down when rebuilding your engine. And depending on what kind of money you have to spend you the world is endless lol......and dont know if you have ever rebuilt an engine before but I rebuild engines for people

HMMM COOL thanks when it comes to engine stuff im stupid. but i can replace anything in it. just dont know causes and effects of all the stuff like if you change this to that or what mind you.
and no i havent rebuild an engine before.
how do you know if you should replace the cylinder walls and pistons?
just from score marks or what?

thanks for the info man

Well you will see scoring on the cly wall(s) in the block and on that piston(s).....and if they are small enough you can hone them out. witch you will need to hone the block anyway if you just replace the rings......other wise when you have the block bored and what not the engine shop will hone it for you.....then you would just check clearances and put it back together.

second how many miles are on your engine? it would be wise have your heads rebuilt aswell with new guides valves and springs.....And the cam is up to you really you can add a nice RV style cam or leave the stock one in it.



If you would like I can offer my services to you and build you motor for you. I have been building engines in cars/race cars/trucks....for over 20 years....and I could do most everything you need done to it minus the boring.......but I have everything else to do the job....if you like you can call me at 720-496-3540

its only got like 140000 on it but yeah.
and we shall see what happens money wise at least this pos will have to sit for now.

thats not to bad really...i would think it just needs a basic rebuild.....well I would be willing to work with you on a game plan for it.....

yeah man i mean if you could just let me know what i would need to do or something i would appreciate it.

thanks man

At 140K your long block should still be happy, this isn't the carburetor days where stuff wore out quicker. As long as a compression test shows you over 100 psi on each cylinder and all the cylinders are within about 10% of each other, oil pressure is good (at least 10psi at idle and 10psi more for every 1,000 RPM), then I say leave the heads and block alone for now and just fix your leaks.

Richard

cool man thanks i think i might just do that for now

If it's also just plain not running right then hit us with the symptoms. The Vortec 7.4's are prone to fuel pressure regulator and injector leaks that will make it run rich, and hard to start when hot; there's a thread in here about replacement injectors that are a big improvement. Also some of the distributors seem to wear out really bad, I had a 96 7.4 that was around 200K and I could grab the rotor and shove it side to side like almost half an inch. It had poor idle and lack of power. Replaced the distributor took care of that.

Just be sure if you're going to remove the distributor on a first gen Vortec (in other words the 96-up, before they went to the coil-pack LS-based engines in the new body style) that you read up on the subject very carefully. They use a cam/crank sensor arrangement and you must, must, do not fail, mark the distributor body AND the rotor position before removing it and stab it back in as close as possible to the same so you can get it running again. Then you fine-tune it with a scanner that can read the cam retard number. GM's Tech II can do it, some of the Snap-On scanners can if they're updated to be new enough, or the somewhat cheaper AutoXray 6000 is supposed to be able to do it. Some people get lucky by moving the distrib around until the check engine light goes away (P1345 code, cam/crank correlation error) but it can still be up to 14 degrees or so off. It really needs to be within a 5 degree window, +/- 2 degrees from 0.

Richard

cool man sounds good but when you say the distributer your talkin about the spider right?
so once i remove the cap i need to mark the direction it is pointing on the intake?

thanks man i appreciate it

Let's be careful not to mix up terms, by distributor I mean the ignition distributor, yeah that sucker that is under your distributor cap. When you remove the cap, note the position of the contact on the rotor and mark it. If it's not lined up somewhere that you can make a very clear mark, bump the starter a few times until it lines up with something, preferably the firewall, I know of more than one person that marked on the intake then forgot and cleaned up the intake while they had it off the truck. Also don't forget you're making TWO marks, one for the rotor position, and the distributor body position too.

The reason I mentioned the "spider" term is usually when people say spider in reference to the Vortec engines they mean the fuel injection setup on the small block. The small block has a central injector with plastic lines going to poppet valves for each cylinder, usually it's called the spider.

Richard

alright yeah that is what i thought as far as marking the position.
but when you say the body position what do you mean by that?
the hole shaft or something?
and the spider thing i did not know i have talked with mechs and friends down here and they knew that i was talkin about the cap but that is good to know.

thanks man